Ornamented dress material and process for producing the same



' June 29 1926.

V c. L. WEYAND ORNAMENTED DRESS MATERIAL AND PROCESS FOR PRODUCING THESAME 1' Filed Feb. 20, 1926 In 0672 for.

Patented June 29, 1926.

FATE? FFICE.

CHARLES L. W'EYAND, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

ORNAMENTED DRESS IIIATERIAL AND PROCESS FOR PRODUCING THE SAMIE.

Application filed February 20, 192

My invention relates to new and useful improvements in ornamented dressmaterials and to the process for producing the same. The presentornamented article is produced by a mechanical process that washeretofore produced only by hand and therefore at a relatively greatexpense.

At the present time there is a great demand and the styles call for silkor cotton dress goods which are highly decorated, or. in other words,covered with large colored motifs that are imprinted on the silk orcotton material These decorations or motifs are impressed upon the goodsby subjecting the same to individual rollers that make up a compositeform, the individual rollers having thereon parts of the completedesigns or motifs so that the separate colors may be impressed upon thegoods to make up the composite design and reproduce the same at regularintervals throughout the cloth. v

There is also a demand for silks and cottons, having various motifsformed thereon with the addition of what is known as crackle, whichmight be explained as nongeometrical or conglomerate lines or de signsextending across the goods and across the previously imposed motifs.

This latter form of designing is known as hand batik and produced by thebatik or wax resist process, the material being covered with wax andsubjected to different dyes or colors, the wax preventing the dyes fromcoloring the major portion of the cloth and producing irregularoutlines, forming an odd and colorful effect.

This batik or wax resist process has heretofore been accomplished onlyby hand, resulting in a high price for the material inasmuch as thelabor is more or less the work of an artist. I

In printing silk in the ordinary way as formerly described, the severalcolors are severally imposed upon the cloth, the various colors formingthe different motifs and decoration, the several colors meeting at thevarious edges of the motifs. And an ob ject of the present invention isto impose the several colors in their regular manner and to also providea final roller, having irregular out-lines engraved thereon, the outlinebeing simply a non-regular mass of crossing lines, so that the goodsstill in their wet state will be subjected to this last men tionedroller and the crackle effect appeal Serial No. 89,815.

through the goods and throughout the var- :ious motifs producing an oddand colorful 'unction with the irre ular lines on what I term the batikro-ller will produce a most colorful and artistic effect heretoforepossible only with the wax resist process.

lVith these and other objects in view, the invention consists in certainnew and novel arrangements and combination of parts as will behereinafter more fully described and pointed out in the claims.

Fig. 1 is plan view of a piece of cloth, showing how the crackle willappear on the same formed by my improved process;

Fig. 2 is a diagrammatic view showing an arrangement of the rollers forprinting the article;

Fig. 3 is a diagrammatic face View of the rollers; and

Fig. 4 is also a diagrammatic View of the roller showing a slightlymodified form.

Referring now more particularly to the invention, and for the moment toFig. 2, I have shown diagrammatically and in its simplest form a drum 1over which the silk to be printed 2 is passed and which contacts withthe first roller 3, on which there is engraved a part of fanciful motifrepresented as at 4, after which a roller 5 having composite part of themotif, thereon prints on the silk its corresponding part. In a likemanner the silk will be subjected to the additional rollers, say 6, 7and 8, the engraving on the various rollers completing the variousdesigns or motifs to be impressed.

As is well known in. the ordinary form of silk printing or cottonprinting, each of these rollers carry a different color or dye and theentire imprinting of the motifs is such that the colors and shades ofthe several parts of the motifs meet, but do not overlap or superimposeas otherwise the colors would run into each- Now with my presentinvention and the process of carrying it out, I have found that, if Iprovide a roller 9 that is engraved as at 10 with a mass of conglomerateand irregularly shaped fine lines and subject the cloth in its wet stateto this roller a crackle eliect will be produced which is so similar tothe hand batik or wax resist process that the one form cannot be toldfrom the other. The roller 8 may have any colored ink or dye thereon butpreferably this color will be the major color or base used on the cloth.In other words, it dark blue is the predominating color or background ofthe silk, the crackle will be'also of a dark blue. It will be"understood that as the dyes are in their wet state that the linesproduced by the bat k roller will not be sharp ones, but will proice theslight blurring effect that is true of the wax resist or batik processwhich clearly distinguishes this process from an ordinary printing orlines on the goods. In other words, the lines formed represent thel'ilurring which .is known as crackle in the art.

In Fig. 4: I have shown a slightly modified form of producing thiscrackle ellect which consists in forming a plurality of conglomeratelines or irregular lines on say, the roller 8 in conjunction with themotif design that is ordinarily placed on this roller.

In other words, roller to produce the crackle, I have found it possibleto engrave one of thenumerous motive rollers with a crackle design toalso produce'th'e crackle efi'ect, but I prefer to use a separate rolleras outlined in'th'e preierr'ed form.

From the foregoing, it will be seen thattively high prices for the goodsat a much reduced cost and at the same time secure the beautiful andartistic results heretofore only obtained by hand.

I am aware that it is old to produce a' crackle effect on silk or cottongoods and that it is old to produce printed motifs and instead of usinga special designs on silk and cotton goods, but I am not aware of theproducing of a crackle by mechanical means on printed goods while stillin their wet state, and I am aware that dark outlines have been producedby a final roller to outline or accentuate design motifs (such asoutside of rose leaves, etc.), and I am aware that two wet colors havebeen printed to touch each other to form a third color as blue andyellow touching to form green; but I am not aware of any process bywhich a roller gives the fabric a special character of batik, waxresist, or hand made appearance'by printing soit wet lines over all theother motifs.

I claim: V p

1; The process 0t; ornamenting fabrics which consists insubjecting thematerial to lurality or printing rollershavingideand motifs thereon, theseveral rollers torining the con'iposite designs in the colors desiredand then subjecting the material iile in its wet state to another rollerhava plurality o't-congloiner'ate and irreguf larly disposed linesthereon to produce a crackle similar to the crackle produced by" thewait resist process. 7 a

The method o1 ornamenting silk" and cotton goods or other fabrics tosii'nulatethe hand batik process which consists in subjecting thematerial to a plurality of rollers, ea'ch oi said rollers furnishingits'partic ular color and part of the motif andthen subjecting the goodsto a final roller whose-surface is provided with a mass of conglomenate, irregular and non-directional,lines while the goods are still intheir wet's'tate' toc'ause' the crackle to be superimposed throughoutthe entire suria'c e'ot thecloth and interningle with the various"motifs.

3. The process of siinula tinghand batik or wax resist process forprinted goods comprising the subjecting of the material'to a pluralityof rollers having their surface torm'edvith parts to form the compositedesign, each orsaidrollers impressing it'sindividual color, and one ofsaid rollers having a mass of conglomerate lines thereon to thereby forma crackle appearance on the goods while the goods are still in their wetstate.

In testini'o'i'i'y whereof I affix'my signature.

HARLES L. WEYAND.

